The dress has suffered a few indignities and is coming along. I have sewn the centre panel to the side panels about three times in order to get a smooth seam. I piped them initially but didn't like the effect. I have used a silk on the side with the same 1/2 layer of quilt batting, then overlayed with lace. I had to take them off a second time to add a layer with interfacing to give it a bit more body.
The batting is used to cover any unsightly bumps created by the boning, which will go into the lining layer. I don't have any corset coutil so I am using a firmly woven cotton.
The neckline edge (and the layers of all the other edges) have been basted to allow for the turn of the cloth. This will allow the fabric to go smoothly over the curves of the body. Do you see how the neck edge turns under just slightly? This is so that it will look smooth( see below) once it is sewn and the edges are actually turned under. I will either pipe or bead this edge.
The seams have not been pressed yet, but the seam allowances are notched, clipped, trimmed for bulk and catch stitched open to keep them smooth.
The seam on the right side of the picture has been sewn open, the left side hasn't been stitched yet. They have not been pressed yet.
12 hours ago