Finished the Oireachtas season

Well, the last custom dress was shipped yesterday and arrived in Pennsylvania today. I did not hear from the clients, so either it fits and they were off to the "O"or it doesn't and they were rushing for alterations. I am sure you can imagine which I would prefer.
Today, while th eadrenaline was still flowing, I made a dozen Christmas stockings and completed a tree skirt for a local gift shop. I always have lots of velvets and sparkly laces left over from the dresses. This year I was determined to finally put them to good use. They turned out really cute. No photos though.
Next up are more items for the next show on December 5th. Tomorrow-hats and cleaning up the studio.

Another dress completed

This dress turned out very pretty. I cannot take much design credit as the mom and dancer drew it up and picked out many of the fabrics. I had to make a few changes so it would be workable, but they did most of it. The first pic is in incadescent lighting and shows the colours better.

The flowers on the skirt are digitised. I had a few left over so I made brooches from them. You can see one on the cape in back. For the peplum I embroidered the flowers out on a metallic silk. The base is white velvet over a layer of cotton fused satin. The flowers were cut out, then satin stitched down on the velvet. The peplum was then backed with satin and edged in a silver satin stitch. The silver is very subtle in the dress. I don't love it but the dance mom does and that is what counts.

I think the curly ruffle is cute. This is the first time I used straight grain fabric instead of bias for that type of ruffle. I did a three thread rolled hem edge over 30 fishing line using embroidery thread in the looper for a bit of sheen. There are three ruffles in a very sheer white organza, so I treated them as one to make them more opaque. I gathered them together, first using the pleating/gathering foot, then by using a thread to pull them in more. It worked just as well as, if not better than the bias type. I will use this technique again.

Satin Stitch lattice

I photograph a lot of my sewing to document the inner construction. I have recently emptied the camera so I am posting various techniques of the most recent Regionals season. For this embroidery I consulted the talented Summerset. She uses a lot of lattice in her wearable art pieces so I asked for some advice, which she graciously provided.

Lattice satin stitch all-over embroidery

The pattern is on left. On the right is a tracing on reverse on right. Again I have used a satin fused with cotton interfacing for the base, with the upper fabric in a cotton velvet. The darts are marked on the bodice and thread traced through all layers.

I sewed on the pink applique at neckline to have an end point for the embroidery. Sometimes you end up with a gap otherwise. The straight stitching lines follow the grid. This stablizes the layers and shows where to stitch.

Keeping the line straight to do the stitching was a challenge for me. I wanted to stitch at an angle. I also found it better to stitch over the straight line with the line being just covered at one side by the stitching. If I tried to centre it I got crooked.

I did not go through the dart area because I wanted to do as much as possible in the flat. I left one square blank on the side of the dart and then finished the stitching once the darts were sewn.

The stitching in flat nearly completed. I kept missing areas and would have to go back to them.

The darts are sewn, the fused satin was trimmed away and the dart was catchstitched open.

Dart is sewn and the gap in embroideryshows. It looks like my lines match up-Yay!

Stitching complete, but the bodice hasn't been trimmed to size yet. This dress is still in production, so I will get some pictures up once it has been completed.

Reverse applique tutorial

Sometimes it is easier to do large chunks of applique in reverse. The fabrics cut slightly larger than needed and are laid down on the top. They are then straight stitched from behind and trimmed to shape. The technique works especially well with blocky shapes. Finer shapes require more finicky cutting.

Here is the pattern on the left. On the right is the design drawn onto the back of a piece of interfaced satin. I use this as a base for the applique. I have used a soft yellow to enhance the warm undertone tone of the white used in applique.

Pieces of fabrics are laid on top and stitched from behind following the design drawn onto the under fabric. Depending on the fabric, I will often use a spray adhesive to hold the fabrics in place. The gold sequin is called "mirror sequin fishscale". The sequins actually overlap like the scales of a fish. It is a pain to work with, but is spectacular under stage lights. I always wear safety glasses when using this fabric.

I used a co-ordinating teal velvet and metallic silk with the coral and gold, all laid on top, stitched from behind then trimmed away. This way you do not get texture show-though onto the uppermost fabric.

The white design was done in positve applique. The design was drawn onto a stiff interfacing, cut and spray glued into place. I basted it down before satin stitching the entire design in a fairly robust satin stitch. The finer design lines dictated a different technique. Doesn't the stitching make a huge difference?

The dancer wanted lace sleeves. This Guipure lace is heavy, so I added it after the rest of the work was done. The teal fabric under the lace also forms the upper teal applique.

The final product. In case you are wondering, that really is a solid block of rhinestones in five sizes and two colours glued down the centre front of the bodice.

Silk Scarf

I had a layer of water soluble embroidery stabilizer that was starting to dry out so I thought I would use it to make some scarves. This one is orange/fuschia shot silk cut into rectangles and laid out in a brick pattern with some big spaces. I stitched it vertically and horizontally using a mixture of sewing thread colours. It seemed a bit plain so I couched some yarns down on top.

The spaces I mentioned are important. The one I did previously did not have them and looks stiff and heavy. Notice that I have no photos of that one. I lightly sprayed some 505 Fabric Adhesive on the length of water-sol and placed the silk on it, then layered another piece of the water-sol on top. I didn't want to use too much spray in case it marked the silk. For the first few lengths of stitching I had to be very careful because the top layer was loose, but it was OK after that. I might spray glue the water-sol on both sides if I try it again, but it wasn't easy to wash out and I need to give the scarf another soak/wash to get the rest out.

The fabric really seems to shrivel up with the stitching. The scarf is much shorter than I had anticipated.

Fabric Score

While picking up some basic bridal satin at my local Fabricland store I saw some fabrics that looked nice. Fabricland is not known for its "nice" fabrics, so I had to check it out. An entire table was labelled as Pink Tartan overstock. Pink Tartan is a Mimram enterprise- the people who brought Club Monaco and Joe Fresh into existence. It looked, felt and smelled like wool and was only $9/m so I purchased 2.5m.
Once it was home, I snipped off a bit and did a burn test. It had difficulty catching fire, smouldered and went out quickly and left a soft ash, no bead. Sounds like wool to me!
On the other hand, a purchase made from a well known US mail order fabric store of 100% Merino knit brought me a synthetic blend. I will still use it, but am disappointed in that one.

Pleated clutch bags

I purchased some leather from FabricMart Fabrics recently and needed to make some bags from it. It wasn't a large skin so I could only get one bag and some trim from it.

I used Vogue 8527 view C for the first (the leopard one), then modified it for the all leather one.

I couldn't fuse the leather or the laminated dots got really dull, so I used 505 spray glue to attach hair canvas to back the leather. I cut it to size, then trimmed out the seam allowances after it was sewn.

The leather bag closes with a magnetic snap.

The leather bag is a basic clutch, while the leopard bag has a zipper and strap. I used a leopard rhinestone to trim the leather and made a leather tassel for the zipper pull.

The pattern went together really easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the pattern again.

A Morning off work

I took the morning off and brought Maisie to the Children's Museum today. She had the most fun in the first room we entered. There was a stage, lots of musical instruments and some costumes. We had "tea" in two other areas.

Maisie as a dragon

Funky Red Riding Hood

Searching for eggs to bring as goodies for Grandmother.

The ottoman in our living room has three babies perpetually sleeping on it.

What makes an artist?

I attended a seminar yesterdayabout applying for a grant from the Art Council of Ontario for their "Artists in Eduaction" project. I found myself hesitant to say what I do, afraid they might tell me I don't belong.

Is it art?
Is it craft?
Is it something unrelated? Engineering, perhaps? Some form of technology?

When you ask my kids what their Mum does, my son replies "She sews" and my daughter says "Make dresses." I do do both of those things.

I also measure bodies, pattern make, draft, drape, fit.
I analyse body shapes to determine the most flattering lines, while trying to keep up with the ever changing whims of fashion.
I make designs for the structure of the garment, then change it depending on body shape, style of movement and need of the individual it is commisioned for.
I create artwork that is applied to the garments, then apply it, embellish it, analyze it for line, balance, flow, change it again.

Does this make me an artist? A technician, a craftsman? All three?

It isn't straight forward art, pure and simple. It is too practical for that. I have heard description of art as something with no practical purpose and craft as something useful.
A friend claimed that art does not need to be well made, but craft does.
Anyone have an opinion on this topic? Please feel free to share. I would love to know what others think.

2nd attempt

Some very soft and girly colour choices. These are much closer in value so shouldn't be as distracting. The girls/dolls/princesses will be holding hands like the kind you fold and cut out, but in different dresses.

The multi coloured floral stripe will not be in the quilt, but might become a Roman blind, so I would like the colours to coordinate. The pale pink paint swatch is on the fabrics in the first and third photos.

Maisie really doesn't want to move, so she is being bribed with a new bedroom where she gets to help with the choices. She is a bit of a tomboy, so I am surprised at the direction this is taking. Ballet lessons and peer pressure from the other girls at daycare are having an effect.

While I was blogging...

While I was writing the previous post Maisie emptied about 4 vials of beads into a business card holder, which she called a couch. I guess it IS kind of couch shaped. Here she is with her brother picking up the ones that ended up all over the floor.

ETA: While I was blogging this entry she scotch taped the faceted ones to my OmniGrid ruler at 1" intervals. Do you see the piece of boning on the floor beside the card holder? It HAS to be there (as in "I NEED IT MAMA!"). That is her "puppy leash" for her imaginary puppy. I wish we didn't lose the imagination we have as a child.

Random is hard to do well

Cute is easier though (for some, anyway).

Maisie in her new Mama-made jammies.

I have been tring to make a quilt with princesses on it, loosely based on this quilt from Pottery Barn.

I have fabrics in the colours I would like, but want them in long strips randomly forming the horizonal lines. Random is not easy to get right. I cut three different widths (3.5",4", 4.5") in various colours and cut them to slightly different lengths at around the one third mark

I sewed them in a dark/light order in groups of four. It wasn't until after I had them sewn together that I realised I needed one more block each to be able to stagger them. I had to cannibal-ize the strips to get the width I needed. The pictures ended up all wonky, but they really are straight. It was hard to photograph without standing on a chair and I don't want to do that in front of Maisie. She copies everything.
This is what I ended up with in the few hours I had today to sew. I think I am coming down with the flu, so I had a nap instead of doing any more.

ETA: in retrospect, I think the bars are too busy. The focus should be on the princesses, so I will redo it. I have gifts to make for two friends who recently had little girls, so I think this might become a pair of stroller blankets.

Labels and felt

Cleaning up certainly has it's benefits. I found my woven labels, which have been missing for about 4 years. I just assumed I had run out. Surprise! There are a lot left in all three colourways.

Aren't they pretty!? They are a two tone woven brocade background with the business name in a Celtic font. I am so glad to have found them again.

The labels are shown on top of some wool felt squares I purchased. I have been selling things of on Kijiji and someone paid me through Paypal. I don't have an account hooked up to Paypal, so I get to spend the payments! The wool was very flat compared to the textured fabrics I usually use, so I washed them in the machine. They have a lovely slightly bubbly texture now.

Getting better

This is probably the best it has looked in a LONG time! I stopped counting how many of the clear plastic leaf bags of stuff that went out the door. The local chapter of the Canadian Embroiderer's Guild received two bags of scraps and a bag of tearaway pieces and the daycare got about ten bags total. I stuck my head in the office at the daycare today and it was pretty tidy, so they dispersed it quickly.

The dresses I make for the dancers are almost all custom made, so they each have a paper pattern made with a design drawn on in pencil, then traced over with a black sharpie. I don't need the patterns, but keep them for a while in case the dress needs to be altered or if there is a question from the purchaser, who might live anywhere in the world. Well, a "little while" turned into years and I bagged up and filled three leaf bags with patterns alone. Now the kids at daycare can colour, cut or paint front bodice panels and side skirt panels and sleeves to their heart's content!

The rest of my house looks amazing. No clutter anywhere! Of course, this means you can see how much the trim needs painting, so that will be the weekend's chore.

Not proud

I have started the sorting, which will be needed before packing the sewing room.

This is what it looks like right now. Yikes!