Teal Tweed

I haven't stopped work on this jacket, but it won't be wearable until Fall now, so I haven't been frantically trying to finish it

I put one sleeve in as per the suggestions here and love it. http://2bsewing.blogspot.com/2009/05/another-butterick-5223in-works.html

I put the other one in the usual way and will have to re-do it. Guess how I will be doing it the second time?

Vogue 1098

I realized I hadn't put up pictures of Vogue 1098 yet. The repair on the lining went fine. I like the big oval buttons. Round buttons on a voluminous jacket (on my voluminous body) just didn't seem right.
I made a few changes to the pattern, but no major alterations. I cut it about 3" longer than the pattern. in a straight 16 for the upper chest/shoulder area, increasing to an 18 at the side seam. It is large and I could have done a straight 16. The back has a lovely flow with the extra width.
The sleeve alteration took about 1 1/2" (3/4" each side) from the sleeve at the seam where the centre joins the "cuff" seam, tapering up to nothing at the shoulder curve. It is still quite a large sleeve.

I am now working on the sleeves for the teal tweed jacket. They are cut, onse seam sewn and lined to edge. One has been quilted already. I basted the tweed, machine stitched it and have hand sewn the lining up, so it is ready to set in. I have just begun the quilting on the other sleeve.

I looked at beads for on the trim, but I don't want to decorate it so much that I feel self conscious wearing it.

Trim

I decided to stick withthe suede look fabric. I like the texture of the suede. This way I can make a coordinating skirt from the crepe and not feel too matchy-matchy in the jacket.Channel stitching in variegated thread

Facing sewn on

The pockets are a maybe and are just pinned on in these pictures to figure out placement. I might trim the top edges like I did the jacket edge. I don't like to bring the eye down, so usually avoid things on my hips. They are large enough to call out for attention on their own!

Bad Timing?

After waiting forever for the wool crepe from Fabric Mart, I received an email from them saying that the package had been returned and to check the address. All was correct and they shippied it out to me this time, instead of my sister in the US.
In the meantime I found a synthetic suede in a good teal and cut that into a edge band. After I backed it with a layer of lightweight quilt batting, I bagged the outer edge, using silk organza as a facing. Once it was pressed and the edge compared to the jacket for size and shape (which has a clean finished edge already, doh!) I channel stitched it with a variegated cotton embroidery thread in a 30 weight. It is a subtle effect, but noticeable when close up.
At about the time all this had been done, but not yet sewn on, the doorbell rang. Of course, it was the package from Fabric Mart containing the teal wool crepe and of course, it was a perfect colour match for the tweed. Now, what to do? I have a band faced and stitched, which I like, and 5 yards of coordinating crepe.

Quilting

The lines are about 2 1/2 to 3" apart. I used a 9 sharp needle and regular Gutterman sewing thread. I looked for hand quilting thread, but couldn't find a colour that was close enough. I have never hand quilted before, but I used to do a lot of hand embroidery and hand sewing for work. The wool is very lightweight and soft and stitching through it was easy. It was a bit harder to do through the areas with interfacing.
Wendy- I didn't use tiger tape, but I did stitch it from the top side. There is a tiny tattersall design in the weave and it gave me lines to follow. It wouldn't be as straight without following that weave.I used the pattern in the weave and tried to get 5 "sections" in each. That isn't five stitches, but 2 overs/3 unders and the reverse.

Catching up on 24 and quilting

It sarted during Franklin, a cartoon about a turtle ,at 8:30 and went on through 24, last week's 24, House and about 20 minutes of my husband flicking around, but I got it done. I have the body of the jacket hand quilted!
The rows are about 2 1/2" apart and the stitches are smaller than the ones I used on the edge and seams. I cannot get photos to show it, but will try again later in stronger light.
I am still contemplating trims. No fore runners though.

Jacket Progress

I have the jacket, trimmed and turned and have begun quilting it. I have started stitching it at the edge and joining the lining to the body at the seams. The shoulders are open to make the quilting easier.
I am not sure if my stitching is an appropriate size or not. You can see it in the interior photos.

I love this weighty silk charmeuse from Gorgeous Fabrics.

I have been inspired by the tweed jacket that Ann has begun at Ann's Fashion Studio. I really like her pockets and might add some lower pockets to this one. I am trying to decide how to trim the jacket first.

For Karendee-Thanks, Karen I hope it will be nice when done. I basted the interfacing just inside the seam allowance by hand and catch stitched it along areas that aren't near seams. I am kind of winging it as I usually use fusibles, too. I trimmed it out close to the stitching line once the seams were sewn and removed the basting. I used a method described here LindayT's Blog to cut the interfacing.

Teal Tweed Jacket

I managed to get my new jacket cut out. I used the teal tweed from Emma One Sock and a silk charmeuse from Gorgeous Fabrics . The fabric was surprisingly symmetrical with the slubby additional threads that run through it.

I have decided to use a modified version of Cherie O'Dowd's ( I think) Chanel-ish technique from Threads to make the jacket. I don't have a lot of time right now, so I used the same pattern from the ruffle jacket as the base. I just won't add a ruffle. I lengthened it to be approximately the same length as the completed ruffle jacket and took in the shoulders a bit.

The technique has you sew the shell and lining together, then bag them out, then quilt the jacket. I might hand quilt it still. She doesn't use any interfacing for support in the jacket at all and I planned to do it like that, but couldn't. I ended up using some cotton in the shoulder areas and down the centre front and some bias in the hem.